Bâtard: Everything Fine Dining should be
Celebrating 5 years of excellence (pictured L to R): John Winterman, Drew Nieporent, Markus Glocker
Finally!
I been raving about Bâtard for a long time now, yet, until now I have not written an official review. I don’t really know why. I’ve been there more times that I can count. I’ve actually become friends with several members of the team and I’ve NEVER had anything less than an amazing experience. Attending their 5 Year Anniversary reminded me, in the most perfect way, why of all the restaurants I’ve been fortunate enough to visit, Batard remains my favorite.
Bâtard counters every negative stereotype I commonly hear about Fine Dining. Now, granted, high-end food is a luxury. Actually, it’s a vice. No different that people that love shoes, handbags, cars, and travel-lovers of fine cuisine are willing to pay a premium for great food, prepared by great chefs, in a great environment and world-class service. Bâtard delivers everything you would expect and so much more.
The Food:
“ Confidence in the kitchen means doing the best we can with ingredients at hand without too much
manipulation. It's all about flavour: simple, but elegant - classic flavors with new techniques.. “
Yes, there are things on the menu that may not be familiar like “soubise” or “sauce barigoule” and in these cases for heaven’s sake…ASK! The food at Bâtard is similar to my philosophy on wine. If you want to be technical about it, there is more than enough classic and innovative technique for you to geek out over, but in the end, all the technique in the world means nothing if the food doesn’t actually taste good. Chef Markus Glocker and his team compose each plate to be visually stunning, flawlessly executed and full of flavor. The first dish pictured is one of my absolute faves. Scallops, Green cauliflower, Crispy quinoa and Saffron nage. This dish is simple but heavenly. The natural sweetness and silky texture of the scallops is seductively cloaked by the delicate airy nage turned foam and beautifully contrasted by the crispy quinoa. The Romanesco adds yet another texture contrast brightness that really ties the dish together. The last dish is on my list of the Top 10 things I have ever eaten…. EVER. Merguez stuffed tortellini, confit tomato all floating atop a celestial cloud of sweet corn foam topped with a Parmesan tuile. To me, this dish represented their food philosophy on a plate: fresh ingredients, impeccable technique, flawless execution. Bâtard will make you fall in love with with the art of cooking.
I generally pass on dessert and tend to end my meal with an amazing John Winterman composed cheese plate. I’m not a lover of sweets. Heck, I don’t even like chocolate! Despite that, it seems like Chef Julie Elkind creates masterpieces just for people like me. The Duck Egg Créme brûlée is edible silk. A rich, yet light, custard coats your palate like a luxurious velvet blanket. If you already love this culinary classic, you need to have this one. If you’ve never had Créme brûlée, this is where you want to start. In the early fall, my favorite dessert, a Blueberry Olive Oil cake graces the menu and with just one bite, all is well with the world. Make a reservation NOW just for her version of Strawberry Shortcake. Julie’s mastery of technique is evident in every dish, but they are still approachable and … DAMN GOOD
Place and People:
The interior of Bâtard combines classic style with a relaxed, downtown chic vibe and the people exude the same energy. John Winterman and the rest of the front of house team take great pride in making sure everyone that enters the door feels welcomed, relaxed and most importantly, valued. From the moment you step inside, you’re made to feel like you are arriving at a dinner party at a friend’s home. They’ll be a good amount of regulars having a good laugh and some new faces that are just as happy to be there. What would a good dinner party be without great cocktails! The Ol’ Dirty Bâtard is a damn good Manhattan and a great way to get your meal started. If you prefer wine over a cocktail, Jason Jacobeit and his team of sommeliers are happy to find something you’ll love at any price point. And there there is John Winterman, hospitality’s most famous Silver Fox. In organization, the culture beings at the top. On any given night you’ll find him buzzing all around the restaurant doing everything under the to guarantee every guest has an incredible experience. Even on the busiest of nights, John will always find a moment to chat, catch up on life and share a good laugh. Whether you sit at the bar of at a table, if you look around, you will notice something you don’t always see….everyone that works actually looks happy to be there! Not, the phoney customer service routine you get at some places, but genuinely happy to be there! That makes such a difference. As black woman, I can go on and on about subpar service I’ve received in a plethora of restaurants. I will always call it out because I refuse to be made to feel unwanted in a place where I am literally paying for service. The first time I went to Bâtard, was with 4 other black people and we all fell in love that night with the food and the people and have been hooked ever since. Bâtard’s beautiful decor, sophisticated food, and exceptional service is greatly enhanced by the sense of camaraderie shared by the guests and staff. The 5 Year Anniversary party embodied it all! Wonderful people from all walks of life, INCREDIBLE food and wine and that “Cheers” everybody knows your name feeling! Bâtard is truly everything Fine Dining should be.
